Motherhood inspires ingenuity and typical Rocha flair in London
Simone Rocha enters her second decade in business with an enviable ability to serve her many female customers.
here the young bride is looking for an alternative wedding dress; the rocker who raves about red vinyl biker jackets; the former punk who still has a penchant for hard boots over sheer tulle; the girl who longs for a romantic fairy tale dress in a virgin white Broderie Anglaise; and the woman who only wears black, but prefers to do it with a deconstructed silhouette, attitude and pearl ornamentation.
Rocha’s women come from all ages, life experiences, and body types.
In her latest collection, shown at London Fashion Week, the Dublin-born designer found a lot of inspiration in motherhood, a theme she made her own with signature flair and ingenuity.
It is a story told with personal insight. Rocha recently gave birth to their second daughter, Noah Roses, and for Spring / Summer ’22 she has considered many elements of motherhood, from embellished breasts to the very practical and welcome dresses that button up in front to help her with Breastfeeding are easily available.
It was a very maternal place where she put together the silhouettes, fabrications and fine details for which she is respected.
The 35 year old about christening dresses, communion dresses and the way children interpret and wear clothes, as she said.
Her 35-look catwalk show opened with a gorgeous white dress with horizontal lace and satin ribbons worn with a royal pearl tiara that screamed a modern bride.
Another feature of the collection were their puritan collars. Exaggerated, long and pointed over the body, they were carried well over the shoulders and adorned dresses and coats.
The energies shifted from all-white looks and rose bud prints to lace-trimmed nightgowns and nursing bras adorned with red crystal stones.
Some of the knitwear looked like it was inspired by the concept of simple baby cardigans with satin ribbons threaded through.
There were chunky mohair cardis with a honeycomb pattern in earth tones with dropped shoulders and wide sleeves made of cascading Aran cables, from which suddenly a huge short tutu made of tulle and lace popped out.
Lilac was a new shade in the Rocha Farbarsenal and she used it to great effect.
Black coats carried side panniers made of tulle with tinsel that rose from the sides, and dresses had wavy edges that brought the eye line to the hem and onto the shoes – and that was Rocha, the footwear did not disappoint.
This is the woman who single-handedly made the pearl-studded brogue a beauty, and for SS22 her shoes range from delicate satin ballerinas in red to thick-heeled platform boots made of shiny patent leather that reach above the knees.
Famous for their signature use of Broderie Anglaise, the die-cut cut can also be seen on the front of the boots and is interpreted on the thick, chunky white shoes.
Even her socks are sprinkled with a shower of seeds.
Last season Rocha introduced black biker leather jackets and she has explored the subject further using shiny patents that, when paired with short, sprouting tulle and embroidered lace skirts, give that “hard and soft” vibe.
The final look was breathtakingly cool, with a gold tinsel speckled tulle skirt underneath a long cream jacket with long flowing sleeves, a signature pearl egg pouch, and long boots.
Rocha’s front row in the medieval Church of St. Bartholomew the Great in the City of London was full and included Claire Foy and Alexa Chung.
The show also attended Simone’s partner Eoin McLoughlin, her five-year-old daughter Valentine, and her parents Odette and John Rocha.
The after-show celebrations moved to CafÃ© Cecilia in Hackney, which Rocha’s brother Max recently opened and was named after John Rocha’s late mother.
It really was an evening where motherhood was celebrated from start to finish.