Coastal walks and pasta that melt in your mouth: the 4-day weekend in Cinque Terre

On my first visit to Cinque Terre, Italy, I had one of those unwritten, surreal experiences. I was young, traveling with a few other college students, and wandering the coastal park. Around noon we ventured into the middle of the five cities, Corniglia, where a local woman stuck her head out the window and called. She invited us to her house and prepared plates for lunch. Then she served us (bottomless) white wine and the smoothest pesto lasagna. I still dream of this food today and have tried dozens of times to imitate the recipe. She was so warm to us, a group of young, ignorant foreigners. We paid for her of course, but it was a steal considering how much magic surrounded that moment and her generous hospitality.

We also went to Cinque Terre – the stuff screensavers and upcoming posters are made of! You know the scene: colorful houses seemingly stacked on top of each other as they rise up along the cliffs and overlook the Ligurian coast. You can think of the seafood, the wine, and the pesto – ooooh, the pesto – plus the recreational component to get all the carbs and calories in.

A visit to the Cinque Terre is one of those surreal experiences in itself – although to some extent it is best scripted. (Get a good hotel, eat in the right places, pack your SPF, and bring your best walking shoes.) This setting is sure to ensure the best off-script moments too.

Here are our best Cinque Terre tips, as well as some necessary insights into the area.

Interesting facts about Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre is itself a park on the Ligurian coast (think Genoa, Sanremo, Portofino …). It comprises five “hamlets” – small towns that line the coastal cliffs that become landmarks for a hike through the artificial park. (The Cinque Terre Park is also known as “Parco dell’Uomo” or “Park of the People”). These five hamlets are Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore (in that order along the coast). Historically, its inhabitants were fishermen and farmers, and the isolated region was largely self-contained.

One of the most distinctive features of these “five countries” (the “Cinque Terre”) is that they are built almost vertically into the cliffs. This is the result of centuries of work by local residents and farmers who separated the land with dry stone walls to build and farm their homes – and also to keep it from floating away with the tides. You will still see active green spaces during your visit (they look very similar to rice fields in Southeast Asia). On this land, grapes, olives, vegetables, etc. are grown in an environment that was originally unsuitable for agriculture. Here, too, the impressive artificial element shines through.

How to get to the Cinque Terre

Unless you have rented a car, the train is the easiest choice. It’s easy to catch a flight to Genoa or Pisa and then hop on the train along the coast to either end of the park. The local train also runs through all five cities, so no matter where you lay your head, you’ll be connected every night. It’s also easy to add a three- or four-day visit to the area before or after a stopover in Milan or Florence, both of which are just hours away by train.

If you come from the south via Florence / Pisa / La Spezia, you will reach Riomaggiore first. If you come from the north via Genoa / Portofino / Milan, you will first reach Monterosso al Mare.

When to visit Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre is open 365 days a year all year round. However, the timing of your visit largely determines your experience – although all are good. (The location, the food and the hospitality are second to none.)

It’s rainiest between October and February, which means a handful of the more earthy trails are closed. (These more endangered trails are closed all year round, even on rainy days.) That doesn’t limit hiking in light rainfall, but instead limits some of the options. If it rains heavier (which local authorities paint orange or red warnings), they may stop selling tourism cards, close paths, and wait for things to dry.

Summer will be the busiest and hottest time of year, especially August. In normal years the cities are even over-touring, which puts a lot of pressure on the locals.

With all of this in mind, choose an off-season when you want the best chance of quieter trails, less crowded cities, better seating for dinner, and less chance of rain. April and May and September to the beginning of October are ideal, with September and May being warm enough for a swim in the sea.

How to be a respectful tourist in Cinque Terre

Of course, due to the overcrowding in Cinque Terre, it is important to be a respectful and responsible tourist.

Wisely, the region has issued a Cinque Terre Card since 2001, which helps fund the utilities that keep the park open. It gives visitors access to the parks and trains between cities. One version of the map also includes the train ride from Levanto (a little north of Cinque Terre) and La Spezia (a little south).

Here are a few tips on how to be a respectful tourist in the Cinque Terre:

1. Stay on the designated hiking trails – and keep the paths clean.
2. Travel in small groups.
3. Obey all weather warnings; Avoid hiking the trails when they may be muddy.
4. Spend the night in one of the hotels with the “environmental quality seal” of the region (as they comply with the regional environmentally and culture-friendly standards).
5. Book with certified tourism companies that are also aware of local cultural and environmental protection efforts.

Accommodation in Cinque Terre

Monterosso al Mare is the main destination because it has the largest stretch of beach. However, the train runs between the five cities, so you can easily stay overnight in any of them. You could even stay in Corniglia and hike either way with ease on two different days. Riomaggiore, Manarola and Vernazza are, in my opinion, the “most typical” ones when it comes to a charming Italian seaside vacation.

As for the best hotels, this is not Portofino. You won’t find any high-end luxury that will help maintain the charm and attractiveness of the place. What you will find is home made hospitality. Use the area’s “Seals of Quality” guide to find the best properties in each city – and those that meet the area’s eco-friendly and sustainable standards and that help preserve the local way of life. Three to orientate yourself on are Locanda il Maestrale (Monterosso al Mare), Scorci di Mare (Riomaggiore) and 5 Terre Pelagos (Manarola).

Attractions in Cinque Terre

Here are a dozen things to do during your visit.

1. Visit all five hamlets – it’s best to hike!
2. Reach the 5 sanctuaries that overlook each hamlet on designated hiking trails.
3. Visit the Convento Frati Cappuccini in Monterosso al Mare.
4. Rent an e-bike in Levanto and cycle south through the Cinque Terre.
5. Wine tastings and guided tours with a piè de campu or buranco. You can also visit the Cantina Cinque Terre winery in Groppo in Manarola.
6. A private Cinque Terre boat trip.
7. Take a ferry down the coast.
8. Or in a kayak.
9. Visit La Spezia, the port city to the south, and venture into Portovenere and its islands (like Cinque Terre; they’re also a UNESCO World Heritage Site).
10. Treat yourself to a night on the Italian Riviera (we’re thinking of Portofino or Santa Margherita)

Restaurants in Cinque Terre

Here are the best spots in each of the five hamlets.

Monterosso al Mare: La Cantina di Miky

Vernazza: Gianni Franzi

Corniglia: Osteria a Cantina de Mananan

Manarola: Nessun Dorma wine bar

Riomaggiore: Rio Bistrot

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